Possible Father and Daughter project, 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham

82cutty

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Yes, has a drain plug.
I had the car out today and later noticed Bloody Mary the Transmission is still leaking somewhere. I think it's the kickdown cable seal thought. I've replaced the whole thing once and reseated it twice. It'll pool in the valley between the cable and the filler tube, and drip right by the passenger corner where the flywheel cover mounts. I know I needed the pan gasket. The pullout one was bad and was walking out. This detent thing tomorrow I'm just going to Plan B and RTV it.

Just for laughs, let me know what you intend to torque your pan to.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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10 foot pounds or 120 inch pounds. Use either The Right Stuff or Permatex Optimum Black on the kick down cable. What did I tell about these old GM transmissions.
 
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82cutty

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Dec 13, 2019
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central PA
10 foot pounds or 120 inch pounds. Use either The Right Stuff or Permatex Optimum Black on the kick down cable. What did I tell about these old GM transmissions.
LOL. I just came upstairs after cleaning the area good and applying sealant. I was going to use the Risolene clear German stuff I had left over from a Volvo job. Good stuff. But I also had some fresh Permatex High Temp red here. So I used the Permatex. If it fails I'll step up to the Optimum Black. Thanks for the specs !
I'll put that extra 2 f/p on the pan in the AM before I fire it up tomorrow.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Well I was wondering why intake gaskets were pushing oil up to the top of the intake? Well they weren't, this is where the leak came from.
20200201_165727.jpg

Well, here is the fix, Permatex Cold Weld. Their version of JB Weld, works very well.
20200201_170931.jpg

This is what happens when a rocker arm is set too tight. I over adjusted a pushrod and this is the result. I actually think it might have been an exhaust leak, saw signs of a leak on the driver's side manifold.
 

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Olds 307 and 403

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Brought some Grade 8 fasteners to use when lifting the Olds 350. I will also use two on each end. Cutlassefi, will be sending my parts this week, so at a standstill till then. I will get the kids to help me push it in the garage this weekend.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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Well, it looks I will pulling the pan off this 350. When it fell, I had the drain only half tightened. It actually broke the nut inside the pan. I do have another slightly dented pan, actually came on this 350. This 350 is a stock 76 short block, 214/214 .472/.472 custom cam on a 110 LSA, I degreed it, bang on. I replaced the #8 heads, 77 to 78cc with #6 heads, measured 62 to 64cc with .028" head gaskets, 9 to 1 compression. Fresh machined, 2.05"/1.56" valves, bowls opened, new guides, positive seals and upgraded springs. It sucked with a stock 1700 stall in a TH350 after the TH2004R ran low on fluid. With the TH2004R, 2300 flash stall, even with 2.78 gears, would spin for a 1/4 block. With 3.42 gears, it should go like hell.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Since my daughter will be driving it, I decided it will be getting the stock 350. Well, I went and got the motor, it is actually a 1974, corporate blue and say Oldsmobile on the valve covers. The guy said he thought it was a good running 307 then he checked the block numbers. I turned the motor with my old Made in Canada, Grey 1" swing bar, 3" extension and 1 1/8" socket. Also pulled all the plugs, nothing out the ordinary, both motor and trans looked clean outside, oil was black but not tar. Well it had 307 early manifolds with the O2 sensor hole blocked off. I also got an 17083287 800 CFM non CCC Canadian Qjet, supposedly was the carb on it, makes sense if it replaced a 307 in a big car. Someone made a EGR block off plate, awesome, exhaust manifolds came off with no issues. The 2004R was also rebuilt at some point, has a tag on the D9 converter, hopefully will stall at the 1900 rpm my other ones, put it with the trans in the 88. I will pull the pan down the line, have a good fluid that came out looked super clean. It will get the 2300 stall converter, Transgo rings and slide spring, CK shift kit and their Billet GN servo, 4L60E filter and deep pan for the 70S. I got a later timing pointer and the reverse rotation water pump on, I will also try out my new bore scope, see how it looks inside.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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Actually it is a 73, the year the script valve covers were used.
20200217_084725.jpg

Here is the 83 Canadian non CCC 800 cfm Qjet.
20200217_084945.jpg
 

82cutty

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Well it's been freezing for about 10 days because you sent your Arctic air down here. But I didn't order my Summit double hump trans mount yet anyway, so " a break in the action" over here.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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I got it a painted gold and adjusted the secondary to open 90 degrees.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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My Daughter is going to paint the Oldsmobile lettering Fire Red.
20200217_205800.jpg
 

Olds 307 and 403

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More
20200217_205822.jpg
20200217_205845.jpg
20200217_205858.jpg
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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My middle Daughter did this.
20200221_165756.jpg
20200221_165822.jpg
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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Getting really close to running. Thought, just fluids and a battery. Then I remembered, probably the top two bell housing bolts aren't enough to hold it all together.
20200222_210649.jpg
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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Well, it runs with great oil pressure, try that on nearly any other brand from that era, 47 years old. It has 20 hot idle at 800 rpm. The hot air choke works as it should, surges a bit at idle. My timing light was broken, bought a new one, was at 39 degrees, hit against the starter slightly, man these can tolerate timing. The surging seemed better, probably 20 degrees less timing. It is no powerhouse but I have a feeling the 83 non CCC 800 CFM Canadian 307 carb is super lean. Tough to get it to idle low enough with manifold vacuum for the timing, 52 degrees with the vacuum advance. Well the secondary air doors were super light tension, tightened a bit and only opened 70 degrees, fixed that, now 90 degrees. This carb also doesn't have a big port for the charcoal canister. Where would it hook to?
 

Olds 307 and 403

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I had 4 vehicles down this week, Dakota technically drives but was filling the oil pan with antifreeze. My Daughter's Tercel starting using a lot of oil in town, not good nearly 400K on it. She added a ton of oil on the way home, still blew up. My Dakota had a head gasket go. Both Olds were running, tore down for improvements. Pretty bad when a Dodge is the vehicle you can count on. Now the 88 is running and the Tercel is scrap, so two more to go.
 
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82cutty

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Good question about the canister. I'd say air bonnet. The underside of my Edelbrock chrome Hi-hat has a knockout for such a thing.

Attempted to restore dash vents for heat on Sunday. Blows good via top defrost and bottom vents. But my vacuum ball is cracked and in a cardboard box in the garage. The lines were just laying there connected into each other with a rubber jumper tube.

Took the thin purple line and Y- tapped it to the vac line in the rear going to the trans modulator. Car appears to still shift.
Didn't notice much difference in air movement out of the dash vents.. until the additional step of cap-plugging its partner, the black hard vac line.
I can hear the "whoosh" now when I switch to VENT position. Still not amazed at the volume out the dash. But the fan switch has the dead #4 position issue.
I suspect the switch. Easy enough to check.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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This arrived today.
20200227_162828.jpg
I also have a better air deflector that goes under the cross member. This 88 has always ran hot, hopefully these fix it once and for all.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Well this 350 has been running good except hot restarts, think I have the choke close to right, could be heat soak. The choke is fully opening and it takes a long crank and sometimes holding the gas pedal to the floor. I am running two thin Mr Gasket 4 hole carb base gaskets, both very thin on an iron manifold. I have the 4 hole phenolic 1" spacer that goes with the gasket, I just need longer bolts. I may notch the Metric thread mixture screws, can't find the proper head for my carb adjustment tool, they may be out of adjustment.
 
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