I pulled the Qjet off, no fast idle screw. I stole one off the 260 Dualjet. I used Permatex Cold Weld on the two visible well plugs. I also touched up gold paint on the motor. I am going to notch the mixture screws as well and install tomorrow.
Possible Father and Daughter project, 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
- Thread starter Olds 307 and 403
- Start date
Well, I put it on, runs better. I used a good 1/4" thick open gasket, along with both thin 4 hole gaskets. Any taller and the hot air choke won't work without a new tube. I adjusted the mixture screws 5.5 turns out, found this to be close on these emissions carbs. I had to ream the entrance to get socket on them. They are a hex head, a deep E Torx socket works the best. This thing seems to run better and better in the power department, nice and smooth.
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82cutty
Member
No screw? I hate setting fast idle lol. Hot restarts are ok over here.But Cold starts ( first one of the day) take 2 or 3 tries.., even with some throttle pumping beforehand.
Well, I think it is finally dialed in. I adjusted the choke coil one click tighter, mixture screws were at maximum rpm where I guessed. I have the fast idle at 1200 to 1300 rpm and the curb idle a bit over 1000 rpm in park. It runs smooth and noticeably more power than the 260, probably similar mileage with amazing oil pressure for its age, never goes below 20 psi. I wonder how it will do with just a 5 or 10W30, which is what is may get, just to decide if Royal Purple HMX SL rated 5W30 is a good choice. Looks like gaskets were done at some point, may give it a shot.
I got the GN rad baffles installed, the slots and some holes lined up on the 88. Hopefully it helps run cooler. I also trimmed the top carb gasket, was definitely catching, so now the top two gaskets are open. The oil was already very black, put in Royal Purple 5W30 HMX SL rated with some 20W50 Valvoline VR1. Also tightened the collector gaskets as well.
The good news, the 73 350 in the 88 runs great, many burnouts. The bad news, the rad needs replacement. The fans do cool the car quicker with the GN rad surround flaps. The really bad is the brakes. One of the brake lines came very close to the Sanderson collectors. I noticed a soft pedal, gradually getting worse. Yes, a wet spot on the frame, the line wore through. Everything has been really frustrating lately, it will be a while till the line is fixed, thinking a Spectra CU161 copy A body plastic rad, I already trimmed the cradle.The more I run this motor, the better it runs. Try putting in a 47 year old brand "C" motor from that era, never went well from what I saw.
82cutty
Member
Typical, following the engine install. My line running down to the rears cracked at the nearest support clip after I disturbed it slightly, pulling and reinstalling my crossmember. Better now than later, I say.
Well, I ordered the wider A body rad, tubing bender, double flair kit along with 25' of 1/4" and 3/16" Copper Nickel tubing with fittings. It is a ways out from coming, so I decided I needed this line fixed today, no bulk tube local, so I used a pre flared 3/16" line with SAE fittings and figured 5' would be close, bought a 6' as well, both in Copper Nickel. Also bought a bender, what a waste. The 5' was the perfect length and super easy to bend by hand. Took for a drive, had to pump it up but reservoir still full. I bled the other caliper, breaks are perfect. The 350 pulls really well for what it is and has better cold oil pressure, filter was starting to plug, oil was pretty dirty. Tomorrow, finish putting the 350 back together for the 70S. I worked 53 hours last week, many more ahead must be nuts.
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82cutty
Member
There's just something satisfying about ripping out rusty lines and replacing with new. I've more line work to do on my 82 yet.
That brake fluid, man, I'll tell ya. Rough on the bare hands. It's like a "lite" version of fiberglass resin.
Nasty.
That brake fluid, man, I'll tell ya. Rough on the bare hands. It's like a "lite" version of fiberglass resin.
Nasty.
I recieved my OSC CU161 rad, 33" wide, I can fit 34" with the cutting I did. I like that it has thread in plugs, some have a crappy rubber plug and two different size rad hoses will fit on the top fitting. I am betting my gauge will take forever to hit 200 now.
82cutty
Member
I agree, nice for the $175 Canadian with free shipping. I will get the new temp gauge in tomorrow and test the old one with boiling water.
New gauge in, reads the exact same as my temp gun. It runs between 195 to 205, 210 at the highest, should be the stock 307 195 thermostat. The fans drop it from there pretty quick in town and now has plenty of heat inside as well.
New gauge in, reads the exact same as my temp gun. It runs between 195 to 205, 210 at the highest, should be the stock 307 195 thermostat. The fans drop it from there pretty quick in town and now has plenty of heat inside as well.
Well, I took the 88 for a good dig, pretty sure the lock up is now working. Floored it like I have been doing and I heard bad belt sounds. Pull over, belt half shredded and GM with their F***ING wisdom, it sheared off the A/C connection. So now it needs another clutch. Get my wife to start it, something is a miss, I look the water pump, none of the bolts are tight! I probably missed tightening them, either way lock washers and blue loctight was applied. My Wife made comments of why I fill trunk full of junk instead of valuable stuff like fishing tackle, she saw why today.
82cutty
Member
Plus you got a nice radiator. Always a good investment on these cars man!
I agree, this car has always had cooling issues so bigger is better in this case. The wider A body rad only needs a little cutting on the rad support to fit.
Well, I have found out a few things about Serpentine belts and the various sizes a person can run. I bought a super cheap 950mm length, the absolute shortest belt for $12 on clearance at Rock Auto, Made in Mexico no name brand. After not tightening my top pulley🤬, I skinned my Continental 967mm belt that worked well. I ordered a 955mm Drive Right belt for a good price off Amazon. Under the Drive Right name. Just Made in Mexico and numbers, no name on it. While listening to the $12 belt squeak away and waiting for the replacement to come, I went and bought another Drive Right belt, this time 975mm, Dayco name and made in Italy, so far so good. Also the best price in the range that might fit. At 975mm it has the tensioner maxed out toward the A/C compressor. The 950mm was pretty much maxed out with the tensioner the other way. Interesting 25mm difference in length works with an auto tensioner.