I pulled the Qjet off, no fast idle screw. I stole one off the 260 Dualjet. I used Permatex Cold Weld on the two visible well plugs. I also touched up gold paint on the motor. I am going to notch the mixture screws as well and install tomorrow.
Well, I put it on, runs better. I used a good 1/4" thick open gasket, along with both thin 4 hole gaskets. Any taller and the hot air choke won't work without a new tube. I adjusted the mixture screws 5.5 turns out, found this to be close on these emissions carbs. I had to ream the entrance to get socket on them. They are a hex head, a deep E Torx socket works the best. This thing seems to run better and better in the power department, nice and smooth.
Well, I think it is finally dialed in. I adjusted the choke coil one click tighter, mixture screws were at maximum rpm where I guessed. I have the fast idle at 1200 to 1300 rpm and the curb idle a bit over 1000 rpm in park. It runs smooth and noticeably more power than the 260, probably similar mileage with amazing oil pressure for its age, never goes below 20 psi. I wonder how it will do with just a 5 or 10W30, which is what is may get, just to decide if Royal Purple HMX SL rated 5W30 is a good choice. Looks like gaskets were done at some point, may give it a shot.
I got the GN rad baffles installed, the slots and some holes lined up on the 88. Hopefully it helps run cooler. I also trimmed the top carb gasket, was definitely catching, so now the top two gaskets are open. The oil was already very black, put in Royal Purple 5W30 HMX SL rated with some 20W50 Valvoline VR1. Also tightened the collector gaskets as well.
The good news, the 73 350 in the 88 runs great, many burnouts. The bad news, the rad needs replacement. The fans do cool the car quicker with the GN rad surround flaps. The really bad is the brakes. One of the brake lines came very close to the Sanderson collectors. I noticed a soft pedal, gradually getting worse. Yes, a wet spot on the frame, the line wore through. Everything has been really frustrating lately, it will be a while till the line is fixed, thinking a Spectra CU161 copy A body plastic rad, I already trimmed the cradle.The more I run this motor, the better it runs. Try putting in a 47 year old brand "C" motor from that era, never went well from what I saw.
Typical, following the engine install. My line running down to the rears cracked at the nearest support clip after I disturbed it slightly, pulling and reinstalling my crossmember. Better now than later, I say.
Well, I ordered the wider A body rad, tubing bender, double flair kit along with 25' of 1/4" and 3/16" Copper Nickel tubing with fittings. It is a ways out from coming, so I decided I needed this line fixed today, no bulk tube local, so I used a pre flared 3/16" line with SAE fittings and figured 5' would be close, bought a 6' as well, both in Copper Nickel. Also bought a bender, what a waste. The 5' was the perfect length and super easy to bend by hand. Took for a drive, had to pump it up but reservoir still full. I bled the other caliper, breaks are perfect. The 350 pulls really well for what it is and has better cold oil pressure, filter was starting to plug, oil was pretty dirty. Tomorrow, finish putting the 350 back together for the 70S. I worked 53 hours last week, many more ahead must be nuts.
There's just something satisfying about ripping out rusty lines and replacing with new. I've more line work to do on my 82 yet.
That brake fluid, man, I'll tell ya. Rough on the bare hands. It's like a "lite" version of fiberglass resin.