Possible Father and Daughter project, 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham

Olds 307 and 403

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Oct 4, 2018
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Melville, Saskatchewan
My Daughter really loved driving the 88 Cutlass. It is running pretty good and decent on gas for her but I did a horrible orange peel paint job that needs to go. I see the panel under the driver's door has a big chunk rotted through. I was going to half strip the 88, steal the OD trans and cruise control for the 70S. Now I plan on removing the vinyl top, changing the side window trim, striping paint and letting my daughter help with the body work. The drive train is far from stellar but acceptable for now and reliable. She loves purple and a dark purple would go with the interior. I am thinking of a pop up shelter for a spray both and getting a HVLP paint set up, maybe from Princess Auto, whichever is rated the best. I would also get a decent quality auto paint, custom mix if necessary.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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Well I got the vinyl top off with really only two bad areas of actual body metal, just above to the left of the quarter windows on both sides, there is a metal bulge on both sides, moisture collected beside it. Also under the bottom trim on the back window, not the metal itself but the metal piece that held on the trim. Donovan how did you remove the old glue on your 80?
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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69hurstolds

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South Carolina
Vinyl tops are sad. I mean, they look good when new, but so often down the road crap like this happens. And it hides under there for so long, you almost don't want to take a peek because you just know...

Sure hope you can get it fixed up right.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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I too hate rust hoarder tops. I really don't like how they look either. That was another good thing about the 80's Hurst/Olds and 442. Not only did they get a better motor, trans, rear end, special paint, body mouldings and interior, no vinyl top. I was scared to lift this one, especially seeing Donovan's mess. Basically those two bad spots. The rear window trim in front of the trunk, the hold metal rotted to nothing but the metal is fine. My end game is have the car done by my daughter's grad, it will be purple. The body has seen better days, rust converter and All Metal may be become my best friend. I will also put back on the Sanderson's shorty headers and 2.5" custom X pipe exhaust I had bent for this car, it sounded amazing, actually made me forget there was a 260 under the hood. I could almost lay rubber and wasn't weasing above 3000 rpm. That was with a dying TH350, the 2004R should be even better. I will post pics of my progress, I plan on stripping that area and grinding off all the trim rivets, the lower ones included, none is going back on.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

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Melville, Saskatchewan
Here you go, the roof stripped. The factory filler is still a bit on there. I cut out factory aluminum swag near the rust. Kind of raised, maybe a factory drain.20190111_142752.jpg
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Olds 307 and 403

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Olds 307 and 403

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Rktpwrd

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Calgary Alberta Canada
It’s looking good Christian. It’s a helluva job, I know all too well.
Be careful with that what you’re calling “aluminum swag” by the rust. That’s actually factory applied lead and it’s extremely toxic and poisonous. Handle with care, gloves, respirator, full PPE. Best way to remove it is with a propane torch, just melt it outta there. Mask up though because the fumes are poisonous too.

Carry on sir!
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Melville, Saskatchewan
Wow, great GM, poisonous lead. Very good to know. I probably need to burn out the rest of that factory filler correct? I also removed the filler panel behind the rear window. Underneath isn't too bad, I will wire wheel, rust convert and prime that area. I am ordering some Plastikote converter next week. I should get the whole roof stripped today. The hood, front fenders, roof and trunk lid are pretty good rust wise. The rest is not so nice. I will be putting this converter to the test. Is there any body filler brand I shouldn't use? I will be only using it to even out the metal where necessary, not filling holes.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Melville, Saskatchewan
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Rktpwrd

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Calgary Alberta Canada
No problem, hopefully I caught you in time. Don’t grind out the lead, melt it out.

As for the “factory applied filler”, that’s not actually filler. It’s GM seam sealer, they just sloppily slapped it in the roof seams on vinyl roof cars. It has a totally different consistency than filler. That stuff is ok to grind out, if you try and burn it out you’ll probably catch the car on fire and overcome yourself with thick smoke and more toxic fumes.

Try and get the best filler you can afford, it’ll pay for itself in quality and ease of sanding. I use 3M’s Platinum Plus filler.
Remember to profile the metal really well underneath where you’re applying the filler, that’s what’s gonna provide the adhesion and keep it from coming back off. You really don’t want to have to end up redoing it in a year or two. Use the All Metal to fill the bulk of the seam and a light skim of filler over top just to smooth everything out.

I know there’s a lot of posts and information on my Olds Cool thread on GBF, but I strongly encourage you to go back and reference it for tips and techniques on repairing these areas.

Also, follow the rust converter’s instructions to the letter, proper use will dictate your success with it.

Good luck!

D.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Melville, Saskatchewan
Thanks, Donovan. I will see where I can find the 3M filler. I almost have the whole roof stripped. I will do exactly as they say for the rust converter. I meant burning through the seam sealer with a flapper wheel, a torch would be bad. I didn't know it was that but it makes sense, consistency is slightly different. I already cut away that lead, I was wearing gloves and a mask. We could ask the Franklin Party about what lead does or not, it didn't end well.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Donovan, what do you pay for quart of the good 3M platinum filler?
 

1bad79

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United States
I’m not sure what’s available in Canada but in Michigan in my area evercoat products are popular and less expensive than 3M and from what I’ve used seem to be just as good
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Oct 4, 2018
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Melville, Saskatchewan
I see the Evercoat on Amazon. The only Bondo product I was considering was the professional body filler. I assume it isn't at the same level as other products on the market. Just very convenient to buy. I need the converter, buying Pastikote 623 and 624, next week then All Metal, then bodyfiller last.
 

Olds 307 and 403

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Oct 4, 2018
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Melville, Saskatchewan
Roof stripped completely and seam sealer removed.
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Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
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Melville, Saskatchewan
I have the rust converter on the way. I plan on stripping the trunk lid today. I know the one corner had rust I ground out most of it. I was the best one at the wreckers, my original was toast. When I pick up another TH350C ar my local wrecker this spring I need the back window chrome trim piece. I am pretty sure he has a non vinyl top Cutlass there. I will probably call Autovalue in Yorkton and see if I can get the All Metal and 3M platinum filler. I know Napa can get the 3M Platinum filler at $75 a can! I do have the Bondo gold professional filler down stars tempted to use it but what is $75 to old moneybags here:).
 

69hurstolds

Member
Oct 11, 2018
43
41
18
South Carolina
What I would prefer, and I know it's not my car, is to remove the quarter windows to do that repair right. For me, it's just too damn close to the windows to be fixing it up without knowing "what else" lies in those channels.

That's just me.