Possible Father and Daughter project, 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
361
107
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Like I don't have enough to do but fix new parts. Hope to make some progress this weekend.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
361
107
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Well all the top end undone on the 260, battery out for the winter, copper/brass rad painted and put some vinegar through it. Of course I spilled half the coolant as per usual.
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Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
361
107
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
20191103_114958.jpgI propped up the trans cooler and decided to drop the trans pan. I saw this, leakage of course🤨. I changed the selector shaft seal, this is probably the trans pan. I put the trans in from the wrecker 2 years ago, shift nice. I am changing the fluid and putting in bigger boost valves and a higher rpm governor. Of course since I am changing the fluid, only spilled a cup😕. This is what I found in the pan, 260 torque in front of it.
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Looks really good.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
361
107
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
I should be able to get the motor out this next weekend, Wife is working. Just the motor mounts, torque converter bolts and four bellhousing bolts and drain the engine oil. I took 2200 to 2500 torque converter which flashes at 2300 stall and put 2 Liters of trans hydraulic fluid through it. I put 1L in shook it around and drained overnight. Took another Liter and did the same and drained for an hour. I put a clean shop rag in the hole and put it on the shelf upside down. With the Olds 350, will check and see how much #7 and #8 compression improved, 2300 stall and 3.42 open on 70 series tires should make it Dr Olds Burnout Machine.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
361
107
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
I should stick to getting this motor out and stop going on so many rabbit trails. Well I got my modified governor, no issues and should be around 5000 rpm shifts even without the line bias spring change. I grind the small weight anout as small as it will go and stake the spring. I tap the hole and thread in a machine screw then grind off the head. Then I plan on putting a .555 foward boost valve, .296 reverse, stiffer Sonnax spring and regulator valve with the one land cut down. Ever feel you should have left it alone? I managed to jam and wreck both boost valves and then since it was wrecked, I made sure it would still go into the bore. Well I jammed that in there good, so I drilled a hole in it and now have a tap in it. I need to get it out! I will buy a slid hammer, good grief. I have the stiffer spring, modified spool, stock reverse valve and .500" valve I can use. Stupid drippy transmission and me being at an angle is what I will blame on this. I have done this before on my back although out of car is ideal. End rant.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
361
107
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Today went better, Wife is in bad mood, shit breaking and snarky comments from a member on Gbody makes me grouchy as well. I finally got the old boost valve out and used a hand file to clean out any burrs. I wish the bigger low/reverse boost valve didn't get damaged. I used the small stock low/reverse valve, .555" is wrecked so a .500" foward boost valve and stiffer spring. I also tried the new Permatex Optimum Black RTV supposedly 15% more oil resistance and 40% stronger than Ultra Black. It actually suggests a trans pan as a use, so I glued the fiber pan on the pan side and torqued down to flatten the gasket out. I got everything else off. I even pulled the pan and oil pump so I don't have to take off the hood. I also tapped out the new dipstick tube from Supercars Unlimited so it doesn't get broken pulling it. I will get the Daughter's boyfriend to pull the 88 out of the way when I lift the engine. I think it will be my winter weight in the Dakota.