Possible Father and Daughter project, 88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
- Thread starter Olds 307 and 403
- Start date
Well all the top end undone on the 260, battery out for the winter, copper/brass rad painted and put some vinegar through it. Of course I spilled half the coolant as per usual.
Looks really good.
I should be able to get the motor out this next weekend, Wife is working. Just the motor mounts, torque converter bolts and four bellhousing bolts and drain the engine oil. I took 2200 to 2500 torque converter which flashes at 2300 stall and put 2 Liters of trans hydraulic fluid through it. I put 1L in shook it around and drained overnight. Took another Liter and did the same and drained for an hour. I put a clean shop rag in the hole and put it on the shelf upside down. With the Olds 350, will check and see how much #7 and #8 compression improved, 2300 stall and 3.42 open on 70 series tires should make it Dr Olds Burnout Machine.
I should stick to getting this motor out and stop going on so many rabbit trails. Well I got my modified governor, no issues and should be around 5000 rpm shifts even without the line bias spring change. I grind the small weight anout as small as it will go and stake the spring. I tap the hole and thread in a machine screw then grind off the head. Then I plan on putting a .555 foward boost valve, .296 reverse, stiffer Sonnax spring and regulator valve with the one land cut down. Ever feel you should have left it alone? I managed to jam and wreck both boost valves and then since it was wrecked, I made sure it would still go into the bore. Well I jammed that in there good, so I drilled a hole in it and now have a tap in it. I need to get it out! I will buy a slid hammer, good grief. I have the stiffer spring, modified spool, stock reverse valve and .500" valve I can use. Stupid drippy transmission and me being at an angle is what I will blame on this. I have done this before on my back although out of car is ideal. End rant.
Today went better, Wife is in bad mood, shit breaking and snarky comments from a member on Gbody makes me grouchy as well. I finally got the old boost valve out and used a hand file to clean out any burrs. I wish the bigger low/reverse boost valve didn't get damaged. I used the small stock low/reverse valve, .555" is wrecked so a .500" foward boost valve and stiffer spring. I also tried the new Permatex Optimum Black RTV supposedly 15% more oil resistance and 40% stronger than Ultra Black. It actually suggests a trans pan as a use, so I glued the fiber pan on the pan side and torqued down to flatten the gasket out. I got everything else off. I even pulled the pan and oil pump so I don't have to take off the hood. I also tapped out the new dipstick tube from Supercars Unlimited so it doesn't get broken pulling it. I will get the Daughter's boyfriend to pull the 88 out of the way when I lift the engine. I think it will be my winter weight in the Dakota.
Checked the cam and lifters on the 350. No super obvious wear on the cam or lifters, compared it to the 204/214 cam on the shelf. I can see some pitting on the lobes on the ends but none round, lifters are flat, the plungers move right back and push easy, maybe too easy? Poured VR1 20W50 all over everything, works like a motor honey in this weather sitting out in my shop. It sure sounded like a lifter, steady tick and certain speeds, mostly not under load. It was there with the manifolds and shorty headers, was sign of a leak under the middle of one manifold. Going to clean the intake surface and attach the reverse rotation water pump. Using the glycol resistant Permatex water pump and cooling RTV and using their Optimum Black on everything except the Sanderson header flange, probably Copper RTV on it. I have a much better air deflector to go the 88, hopefully that and the GN flaps help it run cooler. Also changed the flexplate, this one says Metric but the weight looks the samez pretty sure they all are. I will grab the oil filter adapter off the 260 and get it on as well.
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I got the intake surfaces cleaned up, head sides of valve cover gaskets and one side of the exhaust mating surface, no wonder it leaked, maybe it was an exhaust leak, weird that it was so rythmic. Water Pump and Thermostat RTV on the water pump. The gasket is unique on the reverse rotation water pump, doesn't come in the gasket sets and mine was destroyed when Rock Auto sent it years ago. I still had a gasket for the oil filter adapter, so Optimum Black RTV on both sides and installed. Also both motor and the driver's side heat shield.
Well, I was going to buy the CK pan spacer to use the bottom feed filter on the 2004R. I was searching deep pans online and found a used one for less than half price on eBay and is in Canada. Hopefully not won't be like my deep Hughes pan, leaked no matter what I tried. I will probably buy the expensive aluminum core with silicone sealing beads Lube Locker gasket for it and use the 4L60E bottom feed filter. I am waffling between full synthetic, conventional or 50/50 Dexron 3, both will be Coop Sonic brand where I work.
82cutty
Member
Well if nothing else , you could run with a leak longer..
Actually I came here to say your dropped pad didn't look bad. Mine looked the same way. Just a bit of the grey stuff.
Nice not to find mystery hardware in the pan.
82cutty
Member
82cutty
Member