My 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S

[IIIQuaZIII]

How it currently looks. 9 to 1 Olds 350 214/214 cam/TH350C/2.78 open type O rear.
View attachment 642
I have been fogging the back to cylinders with this. View attachment 643
#7 and #8 were 110 psi vs 150 to 155 for the other 6. I gained 15 psi on 8, maybe 5 on #7. No real gain this 3rd time but will use up the can in those cylinders. Either way the 350 will be going in the 88 CSC with the 2300 stall lock up torque converter and maybe the modded governor, should be around 5000 rpm shift points. Also putting the Performer intake back on, 1" open spacer and putting the hot air choke back on, will convert the 260 to electric. Along with a new A/C compressor, condensor, receiver dryer and maybe an evaporator, want working A/C again . Want a fun car to drive and hoping for 20 mpg while I build the 70S. It will adopt the 260 so it can move around. I plan on picking up the longer main studs and a girdle this fall and get the 403 block to the machine shop. Already have cam bearings, just main bearings to assemble the bottom end, will probably get them and some roller lifters from Cutlassefi. I am waffling about using iron heads but already have a set of ported #6 heads with 2"/1.625" valves and filled crossovers. The chambers do need to be enlarged a bunch and I would add new positive seals and springs to match the roller cam. Procomp heads are tempting as well. I was also waffling between a TH350C or a 4L80E. I do have a 2004R that lost 3rd and 4th due to my daughter running it low on fluid. I think building my extra half wrecked 2004R is better than paying $500+ for a questionable 4L80E core that might need rebuilt anyways. I actually HATE it's gear ratios, none are ideal, just like the strength idea of the 4L80E. If I splurge for the billet forward drum, new sun shell, billet 10 vane pump, shift kit, servo, sheet metal pan and big rebuild kit from CK Performance, I will rebuild the 2004R myself and should hold up fine, don't trust the local trans shop. I may go with Dr Dan's 2004R converter he runs, around 2800 stall. I have CK's big manual to help me do this. It may take some time, I do have a somewhat working non functional lockup TH350C, don't want to rush the 2004R build. Then I can run 3.90 gears, 1900 rpm at 60, 2200 rpm at 70 mph with the planned 275/60R15 tires, perfect cruising rpm. What can I say, want the acceleration to be like a sledgehammer and not screaming on the highway. New cars have spoiled me, steep first gear and great OD, want that for my 70S. Plan to have the short block together by Summer but bodywork, paint, orginal Sherwood Green, grills and maybe tail lights are a high priority as well. Also considering the AEM infinity on multipoint EFI but may just use the 750 Street Demon or send my extra Qjet to Everyday Performance. I would also add a wideband, planning on the Stainless Chinese headers and 2.5" dual exhaust to finish it out.

Hey man, how you been doing? IDK if you know what happened to my 403 after it was rebuilt, and rebuilt again. It's a whole story. I think all that happened around the time the second iteration of oldspower.com came out. So, I don't remember what got posted. Those rims will actually look pretty good on that. If they were mine, I think I'd sand off the layer of paint on the top that sticks up on each spoke and polish it. Then paint the recessed area black or whatever color. They should look cool no matter what you do though.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

I think the choke is finally dialed in on the Qjet. I had to add two washers behind the choke housing. I was leaving it slightly loose, tight the linkage stuck down. I also set the coil tighter, fast idle up a bit and closed up the amount the pull opened. I also cleaned all the chrome, Stainless and adonized trim. Looks pretty good, will take pics tomorrow. This also arrived, 1000 cfm and a 1/4 the price of the Holley TB.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Found screws for the sensors. Looks like a LS style IAC and a TBI style TPS. I pissed around with getting full throttle and smooth movement on the throttle body. It was no where near right, as is. I also used the Permatex Orange thread locker on the the eight throttle plate screws and side linkage. A lot better than how it arrived. I will order sensors and base gasket today and pick up some 5/16" stainless 1" long bolts and washers as well for the four base bolts.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

New throttle body on with new TPS and IAC. Throttle stud on, my TV cable attachment went missing. Getting a new one and Spectre Throttle cable bracket next, baby steps.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Still waiting on the machine shop. As mentioned, 20 engines a month for the oil field. I will call them again on July 8th, get them to fix the crank and I will do the assembly myself. A couple more pieces.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Well I just couldn't stand the terrible green paint job I put on my 70S anymore. I am removing most of the paint and treating the rust with rust converter and will bondo the holes with metal reinforced filler. I have a brand new can in the basement, so it is getting used. I have multiple cans of Rust Destroyer red primer to cover it. I plan on this being a 2 year stop-gap as my Challenger and Lund boat will be paid for and give me an extra $1000 a month. So I will find a body shop to do 3, if not 4 quater panels, fix the hood, one rotten front corner and either door bottoms or whole doors. So this is why I am not super concerned on removing all the rust. The dock strike means there are very few trains coming through the CN yard right now. Short day yesterday, may not work today, so I have time.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Well half done. Nothing but a struggle to get this much done. First the filler didn't set up the first time. I put way more hardener than suggested. Apparently two to three times was needed. Then the nozzles on the first two cans I grabbed were plugged. After two more cans applied and next can plugged, I found a different nozzle that was wide open. I emptied the can and half as well that were plugged. One side done.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

After many hours of flap disc, bondo, sanding and scrapping then Rust Destroyer primer, here is the finished product.

 

[Rocketman269V]

If you wet sand that and clear it, it would look pretty nice.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Well, I am in Saskatoon with CN and went to Precise Engines, the machine shop that promised my motor done 10 months ago. I actually got to talk to one of the machinists and they will double check the bores, since I got 4.097 to 4.098" with the calipers and check the clearances, even the mains, he pointed out that even though it spun easy, maybe they put too much clearance, if the other shop screwed up the rod bearing clearances. Hopefully not but you never know. So it looks like they are going to do it by the Aug 11 pickup date, back in for a couple of appointments for my Wife. So crossing my fingers on a completion of the machine work by next month.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

If you wet sand that and clear it, it would look pretty nice.

I did seriously consider it, may still do it.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

I went home and tried starting my 70S after it died on my Wife. It cranked a little then clicking. I checked battery voltage, just under 12 volts. So I charge it enough to start, the alternator isn't charging. I am ordering a 124 amp CS130 to replace the Remy 105 amp. Since I ordered it on May 24/2019, it has a lifetime warranty through Rockauto. Of course through the order it shows that is no longer under warranty, except in the fine print in the bottom, it changed to 3 years on Oct 01/2030. So not so simple to do a warranty claim. So no phone number for customer service, I sent an email to their customer service. The only way I can talk to someone is a paid app! I improved a bunch of the body work I did and reprised those areas.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

So I found out the 124 amp CS130 alternator has a larger case and different mounting. I have a warranty replacement coming from Rock Auto, a 105 amp CS130. Hopefully that won't be a problem to get the warranty covered, you can't directly contact them. It will arrive this week. So I also received my Rocket emblem for my Amazon steering wheel and here it what it looks like. Not bad for just over $100.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Put the new alternator on, still not charging. I found the one wire where I put a connector for some reason, came unhooked. The other alternator squeaked from new and I always like having spare parts. Reconnected, taped the connection and no more squeak.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Well, I went to the machine shop, the bad, I didn't come home with my 358 short block. The good, it is all assembled but the bill wasn't done and they had to do a couple of final checks. There were some issues with the crank now fixed. Apparently I mixed up a couple of pistons and rod orientation and a couple of rings all fixed. He suggested I send the rest of the parts for them to degree the cam and make sure geometry is spot on. Of course he showed me their dyno room and they have Olds V8's dyno headers. It is about $900 for a dyno session. Decisions to make.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

This Accel DFI EFi distributor arrived, just need lines, pump and a Terminator to complete the EFI. I will be calling the machine shop for the final short block cost later this week.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Well the short block in the Challenger's trunk, $2250 later. Supposedly emailing the clearances...

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

My Wife guessed 3 grand, I was hoping for around a grand. About half way between as it ended up. From my rough measurements, it looks like the pistons are .002 to .003" in the hole, basically a finger nail. If accurate, I need 66cc chambers with the Felpro and 65cc with the thicker Mr Gasket to be at 9.5 to 1. Those Mahle 3436 VC, Victor as mentioned, head gaskets are bigger than my 4.100" bore. Couldn't find a balancer bolt but it turns over very easy with just the balancer by hand. I will get a torque wrench on it to see how little drag the 1mm ring pack has.

 

[Rocketman269V]

I would pull that rear main cap and do some smoothing/blending in the cavity that is directly below where the oil pump mounts. I'll see if I can find a pic of how a "ported" one looks, I cut the mounting flange off of an old oil pump and bolt it to the rear main cap, to use as a guide.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Interesting idea but not messing with this one, the SBO has much less bearing issues than the BBO. I also considered plugging the bypass in the filter housing but not for this build.