Short block in place on the mounts and trans bolted to the bellhousing. After I put the heads and intakes, the Sanderson shorties and 2.5" X pipe exhaust will go in place. Of course the trans mount broke and twisted the cooler lines. Changed the mount. The trans lines are getting replaced with Nickel Copper lines in a remote cooler instead of the rad cooler lines. My CK Performance .555" boost valve and larger reverse with their spool valve and spring. Installing that along with TCI lock up kit in the 2004R. I also need to install the Cruise Control, so swapping speedo cables and switches.
Congratulation Davies-Crag, it sure was nice to have a product, especially a fan controller work out of box. It is nice it shows what the probe is reading on the digital display and actually start where it is supposed to. I have it set as fan one is the low setting, comes on at 70C, then 10 seconds later high fans kick as fan two. The turn off at 65 and kick on again at 70 degrees, a very nice and highly rated product.
It's good to see your progress. Very seldom do I need to buy a part but when I do I bitch like Hell. Being in Ohio, I'm so close to these vendors. I guess I don't realized how good I have it. My goal anymore is to use up my stash of parts. I am trying to get motivated to finish up a 425 plus 0.030 over. Everything except the pushrods and paint, I already had. It needed "longer" pushrods to get the correct roller rocker pattern on the valve stems. I went with a 9.80" black anodized Comps Cam pushrods. I used Crane roller rockers. Summit Racing is 25 minutes away but they gave me free shipping. Total was $137. The weather getting pretty good so I'd better get moving.
So I put these tires on the back, they are now 6 years old with two tiny cracks on the inside near the rim. They will be the new motor torque tester. Pretty sure 205/75R14's won't spin much. The weapon of choice.
After much wrangling, I am getting the CK Performance high pressure pump, their shift kit, the best on the market and a full seal kit for my 2004R. I also have their improved GN servo, a better servo is necessary for firm shifts. I am also getting the rigid carrier with rubber sealing beads Mr Gasket pan gasket. Of course I am using my deep pan and a fresh 4L60E bottom feed filter. BTW, anyone who thinks you can just put new parts and get close to 300 psi, it won't happen. The best I got out a rebuilt pump I did with the later 13 vane and rotor, which is questionable for strength, hardened rings and upgraded slide springs needed a .555" boost valve to hit 220 psi. If you have access to a mill to machine the case halves and time on your hands, go for it.
I bought some good used 3.08 gears for the Type O, saved $300 over a new 3.42 gear. Thanks Dale. My Challenger has 3.09 gears with the same OD gear. It should work great for the 65 to 70+ mph cruise with 1" to 3" shorter tires. The other good part is all the available aftermarket posi and gears are based off the 3.08-3.23 carrier. It needs an axle seal done, hoping to get a new posi and bearings by next winter to replace the 2.78 open.
So my Mom's house sold, it should mean $20K coming my way. There is also crude oil money tied to it and we will no longer be paying for taxes and hydro on the house. With crude oil way up, it should add up nicely by the end of the year. We each received $800 this year, it should be 3 times that for this year, no $1500 tax bill and probably $1000 a year in heat and will pay out next spring. I will also be inheriting another share on the same oil well, probably this year, it will all go to me, so 3 times as much. My Wife and I discussed what bills we would pay off. It will open up enough funds to maybe get another new car. While a second Challenger GT would be nice, still a good deal at 50K, I said how about we put aside that money every month and I send the 70S to a good body shop this Winter. She has agreed and honestly the boat and car are almost paid for, so less soon, no long term debt. The 70S needs rear quarters, which are available again, door skins should be available by Summer and at least one front quarter, which should be available by fall, just looking online. I will call RPM, just 300 km North of me in Saskatoon and get these parts on order. I am also on the look out for another 88 to 95 GMC/Chebby 4x4, possibly a 3/4 in non rotten condition. I saw a good one on the Ritchie Bros auction site, I may sign up. It had higher mileage but looked very good body and paint wise, most important. My main issue is the weak 700R4/4L60E and the aluminum front diff on the 92 to 95 truck, especially with the planned motor. My Dakota has a year or two left of life, so no rush. I have an Olds motor planned for it, every part except a BBO pan and $1500 worth of machine work. It is my 403 block with the 3.5" stroker assembly for 424 CI. It would get my number 6 heads, a 204/214 cam, low 9 to 1 for compression, Sanderson shorty headers and the 2.5" exhaust currently on the Cutlass. There is a 34" dual core, 36" total width aluminum radiator available for these trucks. That should cool the 424. I just ordered the Chinese full length stainless headers which will go in place of the Sanderson shorties and 2.5" X pipe exhaust on the 70S. I am running my Copper gaskets SCE gaskets at the head and ordered Copper collector gaskets. I coat the gaskets with Optimum Grey, better than Ultra Copper. No leaks for years. I find regular gaskets including the Ultraseal, especially the Collector gaskets are lucky to last months before they blow out. Now Edelbrock just needs to release their new head this year and the new 358 motor can be completed!
I talked to RPM. They said the partial door skins are discontinued. The front fenders are also on indefinite back order. The rear quarters they are expecting any time. They told me to call back Monday, they should know by then. Honestly, the rear quarters are the worst by far and blasting and some minor repair and a small patch on the driver's front quarter may be enough. These parts came to go with the cats and band clamps I had. Also an adjustable push rod, oil filter cutter and an adjustable push rod.
After spending way to many hours changing the Power Steering hose on my Daughter's Edge, it was a PIA, I did a couple of things on the Olds. I threw some fresh Premium in the tank, charged the battery and took out of the basement into the car. I then fired it up, moved it back and topped up the air in tires. Then recovered it, waiting for the 10" of snow next week.
I ordered a new headlight surround, two headlight bezels, in pieces and the wheel well trim as mine needs replacement when new paint goes on. RPM is still trying to get an ETA on rear quarter panels. Their prices are close to US prices and my Wife goes to Saskatoon every month so there will be no shipping charge. I will have to see if the quarter panels will fit in the trunk of the Challenger, when they come in.
So the stainless headers just arrived. The only issue is a dent, others have had similar. The welds and finish look great for $300 shipped. I will paint the mild steel flanges this weekend. I polished them with this.
So the springs weren't bad to change, thanks to the one inch diameter solid steel bar about 5 feet long with a flat end. I kept it from the farm, probably at least 50 years old. It worked great to pry just enough space and use a 3 foot bar to tuck it in. Finally a proper rear ride height. The driver's side had more sag, noticeably shorter. The rear shocks were completely shot. The pic is with 2 spare tires and a fairly heavy container of parts and fluids in the trunk. Sure glad I went with the tallest option. The mystery box is my Performer RPM intake, it is going to Mark next week for SEFI conversion.
So I got my wideband O2 sensor installed. This Qjet is very rich, it was idling like ***** now I know why. Idle was around 11 about 2.5 turns out on the mixture screws. With the choke on, high 10's! Part throttle was maybe 12. I turned the mixture screws one turn out, high 12's. I turned in the mixture screws a half turn out. I turned the APT in another two turns, I will test on the way to work tomorrow.
Better again, high 12's with the choke on. Idle was low 13 to 14. Part throttle was 13's to a low 15. I turned in the mixture screws another 1/4 turn and the APT another turn. Idle is perfect mid 13 to mid 14's. With the choke on, high 12', very low 13's. Part throttle was unchanged. I tried one more turn on the APT, need to see if it makes any difference.
The adjustment made a slight difference, should be good. I got tired of the 2 year old aluminum/plastic leaking, it got to point when I put coolant in, ut came out just as fast at the seem on the passenger side! The new rad is good but the Dorman plastic over flow is leaking, not very old. I will probably get this one.
I bought 4 core mounts but Thornton only sent one set. So I hammered the bottom saddles till the rad dropped in and drilled out the top spot welds and replace the top with the 4 core saddles.
I finally received my front KYB shocks. I will try and get them in Saturday after work. I have a weeks holiday and will assemble the 350 short block!
So I changed the front shocks from what looked like factory shocks to the KYB shocks. I was happy when my Daughter's boyfriend pointed out the big Made in Japan on the new shocks. The passenger side came right out and went right in. Of course no new bottom bolts, so the factory shouldered bolts were reused and torqued to the factory 25 ft/lbs spec. The top 10 ft/lbs spec is tough to do. The factory had a thin top lock nut on top of the regular nut. The KYB also included two nuts along with the rubber top bushings and thick clamp washers. The driver's side didn't go so smooth. The top and first bottom bolt came right out. The second snapped the factory clamp nut. I could not get a 1/2" wrench on it, not even a stubby wrench, due to the coil spring in the way. I ended up feeding a 1/4" drive 13mm socket, since it fit better and a 6" long extension with straight jawed vice grips. The ratchet wouldn't fit, the vise grip barely fit between. It worked to remove the bolt and install the new shock on the driver's side.