My 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
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Melville, Saskatchewan
Torque converter bolts tightened. Had a bitch of time getting the exhaust in place, especially the driver's side, broke a stud, all sealed with Optimum Grey RTV at the manifold connections. I just need small metric fasteners to put on the torque converter cover, a spring for the shifter linkage and a small cotter key. Then on to the brakes.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Torque converter cover on along with the linkage is on. Back line on wheel cylinders just want to twist so new Ni Cad lines on both sides along with the new wheel cylinders on the back, driver's side was leaking quite a bit. Brakes and front wheel cylinders are a year old. The master cylinder came with plugs for bleeding and I bench bled with an engine pushrod. I will probably bleed it again tomorrow to be sure.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Bench bled the master cylinder with the plugs in, rear lines, had to do them each twice to get a decent looking flare and wheel cylinders replaced. I am going to buy a vacuum pump to bled the brakes tomorrow, otherwise betting it will be real bitch to bleed.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Well, the 350 runs surprisingly smooth and quite with a bent connecting rod. Also the trans shifts OK for stock calibration and the lock up works. Now the bad. I hooked up the alternator power terminal to a ground stud instead of the power connection, took a minute, know a big spark on ground connection is bad. The oil gauge showed 25 and didn't move. I had another gauge, showed 0 this time. Good flow at the tee going into the hose, definitely oil pressure. Take of the line at the gauge, one drop came out while running. The casing inside must have collapsed, no obvious kinks, grrr. Now the other even bigger issue is basically NO BRAKES! I changed the the rear lines, rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder. I bench bled the master cylinder and even switched back the old master cylinder, only fluid at the front brakes. I even unthreaded the sensor on the distribution valve to try and manually move it with a small screwdriver, a no go. I also try pulling a bunch out of the front wheel cylinders to reset it again a no go. Taking it for test drive was interesting with almost no brakes. I need to figure this mess out. Maybe a new distribution valve or clean out the old one, not sure, kind of pissed.
 

Rocketman269V

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Feb 26, 2020
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NO BRAKES! I changed the the rear lines, rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder. I bench bled the master cylinder and even switched back the old master cylinder, only fluid at the front brakes. I even unthreaded the sensor on the distribution valve to try and manually move it with a small screwdriver, a no go. I also try pulling a bunch out of the front wheel cylinders to reset it again a no go.
Two things to check. See if you have fluid coming out of the line to the rear brakes AT the distribution block. If you do, go to the flexible brake hose on the rear end and see if you have fluid going to it and coming out of it. These hoses are known to deteriorate over time.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
I am getting a power bleeder and going from there. There was fluid at the lines when I pulled them.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Still waiting on the the brake bleeder, should be here this week. I decided that my 160 high flow was a better choice than the regular 195. If I had another 180, I would have gone that route, had the 160 sitting here.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Finally had time to hook up the Motive power bleeder. I got a good seal first try 15 inches held empty. I threw on 2 liters as per instructions. I had instant fluid to the back. I bled all 4 corners, got quite a few air bubbles. Pulled it off, pedal feels pretty good and actually stops the car. I need to renew the insurance, top up the radiator and take it for a test drive.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Brakes aren't bad a fair bit of movement before they grab. The front shoes might need set up tighter, I set the rear quite tight. Glad I went with 160 thermostat, around 185. The oil pressure is meh but not as low as the 260.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Had to change the rad cap, was pushing past. It snuck up to 200 with the bad cap, 170 to 185 cruising. Now 160 to 170, might see 180 plus in hot weather. The speedometer is bang, trans had the perfect gears as is.
 
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Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
558
196
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Umbot, dap a do bot. Diddly wappa do bot, yeah a yeah.