What did you do to your Olds powered vehicle today?

82cutty

Member
Dec 13, 2019
52
27
18
central PA
Go Dynomax Super or Summit Turbo mufflers. I love the Hooker Aerochamber mufflers with shorties and X pipe under my 88 CSC. Under my less padded interior in my 70S, droning and loud. Here is the Aerochamber X pipe setup on my 88.
LOL That sounds sweet ! Must sound great opening it up on the highway. I dunno if I wanna go there yet. But I like the Xpipe idea .. and shorties still have a chance. Shortie's separate downpipes will be easier to line up with my cross member humps.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
582
200
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
It is more subtle wth the 260 and it's peanut cam but still sounds good. I have never heard a better sounding exhaust on a car, is loud enough inside, loud outside and an ungodly howl.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
582
200
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Here is my exhaust setup, all goes under the passenger hump. 20190412_074550.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 82cutty and TURNA

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
582
200
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Back half is a Hooker cat back system, cut off the Y replaced with a compact X pipe. Custom down pipes with 3" collectors for 1 5/8" primary ceramic coated Sanderson
shorties, nearly as compact manifolds with half the weight.Tail pipes exit behind the wheels, all 2.5". 20190412_074559.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 82cutty

82cutty

Member
Dec 13, 2019
52
27
18
central PA
Back half is a Hooker cat back system, cut off the Y replaced with a compact X pipe. Custom down pipes with 3" collectors for 1 5/8" primary ceramic coated Sanderson
shorties, nearly as compact manifolds with half the weight.Tail pipes exit behind the wheels, all 2.5".
Was the compact x pipe sitting right under the existing crossmember passenger hump? Interesting.

Reworked the plug gaps today.
Also on the heads, Decades ago, the EGR lines at each port had been terminated about an inch out, and folded over to keep them from leaking. I plugged them a better way as I serviced each cylinders' plug today. At cylinder #5, the extracted EGR nut and flange were wet with what looked like oil or carbon-tainted fuel residue. (black ) So I did a comp test with the EGR replugged and the cylinder was at 80 psi. Random tests around a few other cyls were 100 or over. Didn't do them all. I'm not losing oil or water. No water in my oil. No smoke since dialing in the carb and timing. Not too concerned. Exhaust valve ?

The car pulls to the right. I could do a "hillbilly alignment" . But usually if I properly just replace the bad component, it goes right back in line. So I like to check that first. But I can't find the play. This looks like it's just simply out. My tires are all new, so I might just bring it to the shop to align.

I clean everywhere I work. Since I was under there checking the steering linkage. I cleaned up the rack, front crossmember, and oil pan. The car got the "Rusty Jones" dealer undercoat option in 82. This would give the frame impressive longevity. However, the product would eventually degrade. Dirt sticks to it, and it all hardened into this cake I am scraping off everywhere. It's like Pompeii under there. Then there's the 38 years of oil and grease all over the place.

Found out I had some leftover 10 year old Metallic Jade Green Duplicolor Paint Shop the other day. So I loaded my little 6oz. gun and gave the two small grey primer areas on the body a quick shot. Fresh paint.. but still less noticeable than the grey blotches on a dark green car. The base coat revealed I need a little glazing yet. But I can deal with that when the time comes.
 
Last edited:

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
582
200
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Nice, good job on the undercoat when almost new. Slightly mismatched paint is better than primer, been there. Yes, the X pipe tucks under the single hump. The lowest spot for pipes is to give the oil filter clearance. Minor contact on big bumps but my car has soft springs and sits fairly low.
 

82cutty

Member
Dec 13, 2019
52
27
18
central PA
OK. All coffee'd up and going out in the garage to do some work on the Cutty.

- two upper control arm replacement today.
- the two lower control two arms I'll be servicing with new bushings and lower ball joints.
- clean and paint lower control arms.
- clean and paint frame area while accessible.
 

82cutty

Member
Dec 13, 2019
52
27
18
central PA
Oh well.
- Upper control arm is in. One of the mounting bolts (stud) needs replaced. Spins in the breeze. All out of feasible candidates in my coffee can of bolts.
Tried a couple tricks, turned into an exercise in futility. I'll just get the correct stud since I'm on hold with the springs.
- Ordered coils and insulator rings. Auto Stores couldn't overnight because they couldn't get them at all. Strike two.
So I left the passenger side alone today and moved on to servicing the lower arm.
- Not impressed extracting the bushing with the bearing puller tool kit. Wound up cutting it out. On the second one I just used a chisel and sledge and coaxed it out in 20 minutes. That was 1/2 the time the c-clamp kit took. Beat the lower control arm bearing that won't budge. Gotta get back to that.

Found the other part of the coil buried in the dried mud and rocks in the lower arm. I really got to take a pic when I do the other side. I tell you. I'm chiseling hardened rock off the underside of this car with a hammer and screwdriver. The Mayans coul make temples with this shit. It really is like Pompei under there.

Last photo is the worked area, cleaned up and waiting as I left it.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Olds 307 and 403

82cutty

Member
Dec 13, 2019
52
27
18
central PA
Wrapped up the driver's lower control arm today. Coils will be in for next weekend and I can wrap the driver side up.
Then I get to do it all again on the other side.
lower service.JPG

Speaking of the other side, here's some of the fossilized rock and dirt I'm dealing with. No wonder I could only reuse one stud.

Before and after , baby !
c arm job 2.JPG
With new uppers, refurbished lowers, and new coils and coil insulator rings, I may just cut the shocks out ( split the nut) and replace them as well.
They actually test fine. So I was working around them on this job, to do later. But today I tried to replace the rubber bushing on the "good" side.
You can see the condition of the shock posts.
 
Last edited:

82cutty

Member
Dec 13, 2019
52
27
18
central PA
The twins here.

PasSdLow.jpg

Lower control arm during service. I just rinsed the thing off here, while I replaced the wire wheel to finish up the coil area.

twins.jpg


Here's one of the upper control arms. They all looked like this. You can see the condition of the bushings.
For servicing the uppers I just replaced the whole assembly.

Passenger_upper.jpg
Nothing like new. My brake calipers and rear cylinders only have like 20 miles on them.


Passenger_arms-coil.png

I actually kept the shocks. I'll drop fresh ones in later. For now, I wet sanded and painted them. They have to wait since today I discovered the tie rod ends should be replaced. They don't appear to have play, but when I dropped the passenger rod out of the spindle today, the stem is very free . No resistance at all.

This crap is why I don't have a better motor in this thing yet.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
582
200
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Boring with nothing to do would be nice
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORED

so I painted the timing pointer for the 403

Boring with nothing to do would be nice. No government paid time off for this guy. Looks good BTW.
 

Olds 307 and 403

Active member
Oct 4, 2018
582
200
43
Melville, Saskatchewan
Was hoping you guys down there weren't wearing tinfoil hats over a glorified cold.
 

TURNA

Active member
Oct 5, 2018
189
95
28
NY
Honestly i am a little disappointed

They use a GMB housing, then they press on their own impeller
and charge more than double what the GMB pump cost
 
  • Like
Reactions: 82cutty