Sniper efi Quadrajet

[Slowpoke]

How's it going everyone ? So my question is has anyone installed a holley sniper Quadrajet on a 86-87 307 ? I guess my question really is will a 70s Quadrajet non emmission work on a 86 emmission intake manifold ? I ordered the sniper kit thinking nothing of it but when watching one of the holley videos the guy says 65-79 but nowhere else does it mention this when ordering. Now I'm wondering if it will even work or if he only mentions that do to non emissions. Much appreciated for any info .
P.s I emailed holley too but figured is see if anyone here would know.

 

[Rocketman269V]

It probably pertains to the later ones being computer controlled.

 

[Slowpoke]

I believe you're correct and I see now for a emmission and ccc setups it requires a 1 inch spacer to to clear the throttle bracket from the egr on the manifold. The sniper is a hair wider than the oem Quadrajet

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

A one inch spacer isn't bad anyways, Transdapt sells a nice aluminum open 1" spacer. The 715 cfm rating should be perfect for a 307. Are you using the G body drop in tank fuel pump set up from Holley?

 

[Slowpoke]

I got the sniper efi conversion tank with the 255lph pump.

 

[OldsPoweredCapriceWagon]

This information is gold. I have learned more about 80s emissions, pcms, air pumps, and egr systems in the last week than I ever cared to.

How are you planning on keeping the CELs at bay? I have found some information on potentially remapping the prom or paying someone to do it.

Alternatively I wonder if a person could figure out a way to remove the pcm from the air-conditioning relay system. You may be able to then just remove the pcm all together and leverage the Painless solution for the converter lockup in the 200-4r transmission. I think this would render the egr and air pump useless, but would pass a visual emissions equipment inspection.

Sorry if this is a thread jack.. I am debating on the sniper setup or the ccc quadrajet, I plan on leaving all emissions systems in place for a potential 383 build and want to keep the AC. And you are the first I found trying this!!

 

[Slowpoke]

This information is gold. I have learned more about 80s emissions, pcms, air pumps, and egr systems in the last week than I ever cared to.

How are you planning on keeping the CELs at bay? I have found some information on potentially remapping the prom or paying someone to do it.

Alternatively I wonder if a person could figure out a way to remove the pcm from the air-conditioning relay system. You may be able to then just remove the pcm all together and leverage the Painless solution for the converter lockup in the 200-4r transmission. I think this would render the egr and air pump useless, but would pass a visual emissions equipment inspection.

Sorry if this is a thread jack.. I am debating on the sniper setup or the ccc quadrajet, I plan on leaving all emissions systems in place for a potential 383 build and want to keep the AC. And you are the first I found trying this!!

No worries about a thread hijack we are all here to learn something. The sniper system is designed for vehicles without emmissions. I removed the egr and the hot air choke and made 2 block off plates from ¼ inch aluminum. I also removed the original computer and wire harness along with air pump ect.. The oem harness is a separate harness than the a.c and light harnesses. Once you remove the cc Quadrajet the factory ecu is pointless. The egr , air pump and any other emmission will not work anymore anyways. I did buy the tci lockup (not installed yet). As for the cel light I will remove the light bulb because it is not longer controlled by anything. I will now be using the 3.5 led display for gauges and any info needed. My sniper in completely installed now. I'm only waiting on the HyperSpark Distributor do to summit sending me a chevy distributor instead of the olds and then when I returned it they sent me a ford so now I'm waiting on the correct one for 3 weeks now lol... I

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I would've loved for some of this info when I was trying to start but took a leap of faith spending $3000 and not seeing anyone doing it prior too. I figured I'll be the huckleberry haha...

 

[OldsPoweredCapriceWagon]

No worries about a thread hijack we are all here to learn something. The sniper system is designed for vehicles without emmissions. I removed the egr and the hot air choke and made 2 block off plates from ¼ inch aluminum. I also removed the original computer and wire harness along with air pump ect.. The oem harness is a separate harness than the a.c and light harnesses. Once you remove the cc Quadrajet the factory ecu is pointless. The egr , air pump and any other emmission will not work anymore anyways. I did buy the tci lockup (not installed yet). As for the cel light I will remove the light bulb because it is not longer controlled by anything. I will now be using the 3.5 led display for gauges and any info needed. My sniper in completely installed now. I'm only waiting on the HyperSpark Distributor do to summit sending me a chevy distributor instead of the olds and then when I returned it they sent me a ford so now I'm waiting on the correct one for 3 weeks now lol... I

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I would've loved for some of this info when I was trying to start but took a leap of faith spending $3000 and not seeing anyone doing it prior too. I figured I'll be the huckleberry haha...

Makes sense on the AC, although there are two conditions the ccc monitors wide open throttle and high heat and cuts the compressor clutch. Something to keep in mind if you have issues later.

I am curious on your user experience for this application. I am leaning more towards traditional carb route. I plan on road tripping, and I get the impression that more time is needed to work the kinks out of the sniper.

 

[Slowpoke]

Makes sense on the AC, although there are two conditions the ccc monitors wide open throttle and high heat and cuts the compressor clutch. Something to keep in mind if you have issues later.

I am curious on your user experience for this application. I am leaning more towards traditional carb route. I plan on road tripping, and I get the impression that more time is needed to work the kinks out of the sniper.

I know plenty of people running ac in their g bodies that removed the ecu and installed regular carbs and vac advanced distributors so I don't see a problem with using a sniper. Sniper also has a compressor shut off that you can shut the compressor off and whatever tps% you want. I also know of quite a few sniper users that have taken long trips with 0 issues so I don't see rode trips being a problem as well.

 

[OldsPoweredCapriceWagon]

Thanks for the insight. I am excited for you. What transmission are you running, curious to see some feedback the TV cable install goes and if an adapter will be needed.

 

[Slowpoke]

I'm still running the 200 Trans. The stock TV cable bracket bolted up and when comparing the geometry looks exactly the way it was with the Quadrajet. These are the reasons I specifically went with the sniper quadrajet replica. I finally got the correct HyperSpark Distributor in on Saturday so I need to find time to install that and I'll be ready to fire up and see what I didn't do correct lol.

 

[OldsPoweredCapriceWagon]

Haha, thanks for the update! I am stoked for you!

 

[Slowpoke]

Of course not everything can just roll smoothly. Doing the distributor swap this morning and the old hei distributor is stuck in the engine. 🤦‍♂️ Not sure where to go from here. From what I'm reading more than likely the oil pump drive shaft is probably ceased in the distributor. I've been out here for 4 hours and haven't got it to budge. It spins freely but won't pull out.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Can you get a wrench on the body on the two square areas below the big part of the housing? CAREFULLY try twisting back and forth. It could be just a stuck O ring against the engine block.

 

[Slowpoke]

Can you get a wrench on the body on the two square areas below the big part of the housing? CAREFULLY try twisting back and forth. It could be just a stuck O ring against the engine block.

It freely spins left / right but won't pull up at all.

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Gently tap up on it, it will probably bring the oil pump drive with it. It maybe a tiny metal clip on the drive allowing it to only go up so far.

 

[Slowpoke]

Gently tap up on it, it will probably bring the oil pump drive with it. It maybe a tiny metal clip on the drive allowing it to only go up so far.

The little room I have I used a smaller hammer to get in to and tap while my buddy pulls up on it. I even tried 2 pry bars and a 2x4 across the intake and tried to walk it out like some on other forums I found but I'm having no luck at all. Some people with similar issues say they can move theirs up like a half inch but there is no play up and down at all. It feels like the hold down is still in place.

 

[Slowpoke]

GOT IT !
Well that gave me hell but it didn't defeat me lol. I ended just getting fed up and slmming the pry bar with a hammer .

 

[Slowpoke]

Ok everything is installed and the car started right up. I set the timing as instructed through holley and set timing at 20° per the tag on the fan shroud. Car runs smooth all the way through the gears t.v needs 0 adjustments. Now with that being said does anyone know the operating temperature for the 307 ? I've never had heat issues before but on the other hand I never had a temp gauge in there. I have 160 thermostat (I live in South Florida ) but the temp was reading 190 and climbing. After 15 minutes of driving it hit 200° when pulling back down my block. What should this engines operating temp be with a 160° thermostat ? It was later in the day and about 80°-85° out . Basically cruising under 45 mph could this be a timing issue ?

 

[Olds 307 and 403]

Yes, it could be a timing issue. The Olds 307 usually run on the cooler side, what shape is your rad in? Make sure you aren't running excessively lean either.