87 Olds Rally Gauge Refurbish

[oldsofb]

Disassembly on the bench:

You will need a 1/4 inch nut driver and a 7 mm nut driver (for the gear indicator if you have a column shift and plan to convert to center console)

Remove the (4) 1/4 inch screws that hold the clear lens on. (Note the poor condition of the lens plastic)

The same 4 screws held the gauge cover underneath in place. Remove this as well.

With both covers removed, you can start to remove the (5) 1/4 inch gauge screws.

With the screws removed, you can pull the speedo out. The other gauges are held on the backside by studs on the gauges and pinch connectors on the housing. They have a little resistance, but can be pulled straight out.

to be continued...

 

[oldsofb]

The "Warning Light" overlay and light separation box underneath along with the Turn Signal/High Beam Indicator can be removed, as they were held down by the gauge cover. Be careful not to damage the gasket under the light separation box when removing.

if you are removing the gear indicator, there are (2) 7mm screws on the bottom of the cluster. (I kept mine in)

Be sure to note or photograph the bulb placement on the back of the cluster where the printed circuit is located. I cleaned all the contacts and the 5/16 nut bottoms with a small piece of red scotch brite. A light touch is recommended (it's 31 years old)

Here it is completely torn down.

If you are not doing any modifications to the stock configuration, you can clean or repair any parts and begin to reassemble in the reverse order.

to be continued...

 

[oldsofb]

With the cluster reassembled, let's address the lens cover before installing it.

I bought a 3M Headlight Restoration kit. I also used Meguiars PlastX, a micro fiber applicator and towel along with some water and a cordless drill.

Here is the kit unboxed.

I try the process out on a used old lens cover. There are 3 sanding pads (medium, fine, and trizact). I started with the fine pad because the scratches weren't too deep. You can attach to a drill or hand sand. I made several passes until the entire surface was opaque and free of any deep scratches.

Next it's on to the Trizact pad. You'll need the drill for this stage.

Wet the pad and the lens surface. Begin sanding in even passes until a white "slurry" appears. Once that happens, make 5 to 10 slow passes over the entire surface. Clean and check for any scratches you may have left. I use the fingernail check. If you can pick up a scratch deep enough that your fingernail catches it, go back to the sanding pad and sand evenly until it's gone. Then back to the Trizact.

You will end up with a smooth, but hazy surface.

Now for the magic. Switch to the buffing pad. Mist the surface of the pad with water and apply a dollop of the PlastX. Buff for multiple passes, then clean and check. Repeat the process until you have a clear even surface. Mist the pad with a little water each time and add some PlastX again. It may take several applications to get it just right.

Once you're happy with the results, switch to a micro fiber wax applicator and hand buff with the PlastX or the wax included in the 3M kit. Mist a little water on the applicator as well.

Results to follow...

 

[oldsofb]

With all the sanding, more sanding, buffing, waxing, and more waxing done, the difference is noticeable. It's hard to get a decent shot of just how great the change is. In the picks you can see two fingernail deep scratches that went horizontally across the face of the lens from the "Trip OD" hole to the far left edge. The scratches are completely removed where the tape didn't cover them.

Here is a shot of the lens sitting loose on the bench with the cluster sitting below. (I switched to a "Granny" lens that's without a "Trip OD" hole for a Trip Delete) This is prior to any work being done.

The same lens after sanding and buffing and waxing.

That's it in a multi post nutshell.

Hutch

 

[JimH.]

One of the best things I did was to replace all the old bulbs with LED ones, it’s amazing how much brighter the gauge cluster is. I’m assuming you own a 442 that is the only year you can get the factory original 120 mph speedometer.

 

[oldsofb]

One of the best things I did was to replace all the old bulbs with LED ones, it’s amazing how much brighter the gauge cluster is. I’m assuming you own a 442 that is the only year you can get the factory original 120 mph speedometer.

That's correct. A 1987 442 (the only 120 speedo year). The LED upgrade is going in mine as well.

Hutch

 

[JimH.]

That's correct. A 1987 442 (the only 120 speedo year). The LED upgrade is going in mine as well.

Hutch

Super bright LEDs have a great selection, I used green ones for turn signals then blue for brights also I think I used a variety of lengths to get the best light. While you have it out take measurements of how long a bulb you can use. My car is in storage but next time I’ll take a picture with the LED’s. Oh and I removed the check engine light bulb

 

[oldsofb]

Oh and I removed the check engine light bulb

Haha! Yeah, that Check Engine bulb is history. Thanks for the tip on the LED's

Hutch

 

[JimH.]

Haha! Yeah, that Check Engine bulb is history. Thanks for the tip on the LED's
Here is what it looks like with LED’s
Hutch

 

[oldsofb]

Nice!! So much better than the poor stock bulbs they came with. Thanks for the pic.

Hutch

 

[82cutty]

Old thread, but man this brings back a lot of memories, @oldsofb . My story is, I updated to rally dash in 2003 . Picked it up at a scrapyard and used the pinout diagram from this site. A month after install the odometer quit. I had a free standing Sun laying around so I gutted it, and integrated it into the ralley dash and did the cleanup at that time as well. I used a liquid wax but that's all mine needed.

Lens is still very clear, that's just weird reflections from sunlight behind me (and my fingers) . I took the pic while driving without taking my eyes off the road.
Took the picture to send my son later after fixing gas gauge last November. The tank and sending unit needed replaced after the car sat for ten years.

Just had to post after seeing yours. Plus I'm also looking at LED upgrade further down the road.



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