1949 - 1964
1965 - 1976 Big Blocks
1964 - 1990 Small Blocks
1995 - Present
General
|
1949 - 1964
|
1965 - 1976 Big Blocks
|
1964 - 1990 Small Blocks
|
|
1995 - Present
|
General
|
Please refer to the Engines section as well!
On 1959-1963 engines, the 371 has gold valve covers, and the 394 has green valve covers. This could easily be changed though.
The casting number is located at the rear of the bell housing. The number are about ¾" high, and oriented to the right (passenger) side.
Casting Year(s) CID Number Color '49 - '53 303 555614 Green '49 - ?? 303 555641 Green '54 - '56 324 568922 Green 568928 '57 - '58 371 '59 - '60 371 Gold 394 Green '60 394 578135-4 1/8 '61 - '63 371 Gold 394 Lo comp: Green, Hi Comp: Red '64 394 585786 " This specific casting number seen on " an "Ultra-High Compression" engine. The number "4 1/8" follows casting number.
If you want to build these first generation Olds Rocket engines, consider getting in touch with some of the oldtimer nostalgia racers who have raced these Olds V-8's. The famous "Woods, Stone, and Cook" 1941 Willys was powered by a blown Olds. A lot of Willys-Overland gasers used the Rocket block for power. Don "Big Daddy" Garlits knows some of these people - he might be a person to contact (in Florida). Southern California might be a place to start looking!
Try 1-800-FAST-88S. They carry a lot of parts for the mid 50's cars.
[ Thanks to Scott Clark, Clayton Pierce, Ray Woodward for this information ]
That engine series used a bellhousing integral to the motor block. Thus it costs $$$ to adapt a later transmission to these engines, but it is not impossible.
303 and 324 use the same deck height. The 371 and 394 have a taller deck height than the 303 and 324 engines.
[ Thanks to Doug Ahern, Scott Clark, Chris Witt, for this information ]
ID/ Casting Code Year(s) CID Number Notes A '65 425 381917?? 1st year, big cars. 386525 B '65 400 389298 442 only, one year only. D '66 - '67 425 389244 Big-car engine. Toro is different internally. E '66 - '67 400 390925 442 engine [VERY rare]. F '68 - '70 455 396021 Common big block. Stick type F (sans serif). F '70 - '72 455 396021 Common big block. Serif type F. Two vertical and a base serif. Fa '72 - '76 455 396021 Very common big block. Marine also (L VIN derivative). G '68 - '69 400 396026 442/Vista/etc. engine. L '76 455 231788 Motorhome, marine and irrigation. GM made motorhomes from '73-8, maybe in all? Casting number appears as "231 [tiny 'L'] 788" on the block.
Look for the casting number and letter on the horizontal shelf right behind the water pump, just to the [driver's] right of the oil pressure sensor. The casting numbers are usually about ¾" - 1" tall, and the ID/Code is usually a bit larger, a little over an inch, and covered with schmutz. The most common block will be the standard 455: "396021 F" or "396021 Fa". The "a", as in Fa, is actually an upper case A, but about ¼ as big as the F, and subscript to the F [set lower]. Also, on the 231788L block, the "L" is the same size as most of the rest of the digits, whereas the numberal "7" is noticeably smaller.
400's were bronze in color, most 425's and early 455's (1968, 1969) were red, while Toronado 425's and later 455's were blue. However, since engine color may have been changed, use this as supporting evidence only.
The VIN derivative stamping or engine unit number on the left most side of the block, on the driver's side, just below the cylinder head, toward the front. The pad is part of the engine and will indicate the year of manufacture, but that is usually rusted beyond recognition, and it can be changed by restamping. If the engine was replaced under warranty, the pad may be blank. Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips help to remove the grime and grit from the stamping.
The VIN derivative on 68-up blocks doesn't tie directly to the type of car it was installed in (unless you have some way to unambiguously trace the last six digits of the VIN), however it _can_ provide some indirect evidence. If the production plant (third place in the VIN derivative) was one at which no 442s were built (KC, for example), then it obviously isn't a 442 motor. Of couse, you have no way of knowing for sure that the heads were originally installed on that block or not.
1964-67 V-8 Engine:
Code is stamped on the right cylinder head. Unfortunately, this only applies to what was originally the driver's side head. This code consists of a prefix letter (330 V8=T(1964-65) or W(1966-67), 400 V8 = V), then a production sequence number, followed by a suffix code letter (L = Low compression, E = 2-bbl export, G = High compression, H = 4-bbl export). A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine.1968-later V-8 Engine
Have the last six digits of the VIN number, the year of the block, and the assembly plant stamped on the driver's side of the block below the cylinder head. A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine.You can use the VIN derivative number to ID the year. For 1968 and up blocks, this number is located on a pad just below the cylinder head on the front left side of the engine. This number will be stamped on a machined pad on the front driver's side of the block, just below the deck surface. Typically it will be covered with a power steering bracket or something, below the number one spark plug location.
This number should take the form of "35Mxxxxxx" where:
3 = Oldsmobile division. 5 = year of manufacture (8=68, 9=69, 0=70, ..., 4=74, 5=75, 6=76, etc.). M = location of manufacture (M = Lansing, B=Baltimore, X = Kansas City, Z = Fremont, CA, etc). xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN of car that motor originally came in (original car's sequential production number). The letter indicating factory must match the letter in the sixth position of the car's VIN (it should also, of course, match the factory indication on the body data plate - in other words, for a Lansing-built car, the sixth place in the VIN would be an "M", the body data plate should indicate "LAN", and the third place in the engine ID should also be an "M").
Some blocks, before 1977, have their ID cast above the right hand center freeze plug, eg. D for 425, F for 455. Olds didn't cast the displacement into the side of the blocks until they went to the light weight design in 1977. The 1977 and newer blocks will have the cubic inches cast in large raised numbers right above the right hand center freeze plug, eg. 403. The 307 will be in liters (5L), and a diesel engine will have the letters "DX" on it. The engine VIN letter will also be cast into the side of the block. Note that the 260 blocks sometimed have the last 3 digits of the casting number cast there, "355", which is rather misleading.
From the factory, the oil filler tube had a sticker containing two letters which indicated components (carb, etc), model application (Cutlass, 88, etc), and other configuration items (timing, CA approved, etc).
[ Thanks to Chris Witt, Joe Padavano, Bob Barry, Ed Ekstrom, Daren, Andy Green, Greg Rollin for this information ]
Here are detailed VIN derivative numbers for different engines.
To reiterate from above, pre-1968 engines had an engine unit number stamped on to the machined pad at the front of the RH head. Starting in 1968, the VIN derivative (or engine unit number) of the engine's original car was stamped onto the vertical machined pad on the left side of the block, at the front, just under the head- block interface. It might look like "38M203456", where:
3= Oldsmobile, GM's 3rd division [1=Chevy, 2=Pontiac, 4=Buick, etc.]
8= year of issue last digit, like on oil fill tube [8=1968, 0=1970...]
M= build plant [1, E, G, M, R, or Z; see below], and 203456= the last 6 digits of the original car's VIN.
Prefix Number Year CID Notes V 001001 1965 400 442's V 100001 1966 400 442's V 200001 G 1967 400 4V 442's, including W-30 V 200002 1967 400 2V 442's, [etc.?] Turnpike Cruiser 1968 and up engines had an engine unit number stamped into the oil fill tube, the first digit of which will match the last digit of the car's year: 9012345 would be a 1969 engine [or 1979 small block]. Since this part is easily removed or replaced, use it for an indication, not a standard. No point in mentioning the oil fill tube decal with a 2-letter engine ID code, which is 99.99% of the time long gone, and easily replaced or faked anyway.
For marine engines, there is a number that begins with an "L". This strange "VIN derivative" (or engine unit number) number starting with L denotes a marine motor. This may appear something like "L8E00", where L = Marine or irrigation engine, 8 = 1968 model year, and E00 = engine serial number (although there are usually more digits in the serial number). There might also be a drill spot on the pad.
Service or replacement blocks will not have any stamping on the pad.
Build plant info was also used in the car's VIN plate [1 character] and body tag [up to 3 letters]. Some build plants were: 1 or OS= Oshawa, Canada, eh?; B or BA= Baltimore, MD; E or BL= Linden, NJ; G or FRA= Framingham, MA; K or KC= Kansas City, MO; LA, LAN, or M= Lansing, MI; R= Arlington, TX; BF or Z= Fremont, CA;
That'll help ID the block year in case the heads are not original.
For the purists: on the back of the block, near the distributor, is a 1 to 3 digit cast number, digits about 3/8", which is the Julian day of the year on which the block was cast [1 to 365]. It will generally match the Julian Day code cast into the heads, crankshaft, water pump, thermostat outlet, etc. within a few [up to 20-30] days, and precede the car's date of build by up to 30-40 days.
[ Thanks to Greg Rollin, Chris Witt, Joe Padavano for this information ]
400 - 425
Joe Mondello said it was OK as did Chris Witt who relayed visually inspecting a 400 'E' block engine in cutaway at MSU that had 'remarkably thick' walls.Having a set of std 425 pistons, 4-1/8" bore, I went ahead and installed them into my '66 442 400ci 'E' block. These motors have a 4" bore, so had to go 0.125" over. The machine shop was skeptical, but noted no problems. Apparently they can 'hear' when the cyl walls get too thin while boring them out, and none of that came to pass.
Motor is assembled and running well. Does not get hot. Only about 1500 mi so far, but no problems. Know of at least 3 other engines this has been done to and all of those are running well too.
So to summarize, it seems that the early 400 blocks can accept the 425 pistons and a 1/8" overbore without difficulty.
[ Thanks to Peter Sliskovich for this information ]
425 - 455
You can use either a 455 or a 425 block to make an engine of either displacement; the bores are the same. What's different is the crank [stroke], rods (length), and pistons (compression height). So get the crank, rods and pistons! Also, different combinations of lifter diameter and that cam bank angle were used. The 425 "D" blocks come in two configurations: Toronado units have larger lifters, set on a more modern bank angle, whereas more mundane [non-Toro] 425 blocks have the common smaller lifters set on the early cam bank angle. The Toronado block is generally preferred because of the more common lifter bank angle, and the other perks that a Toronado engine brings: big valves, etc.[ Thanks to Chris Witt for this information ]
Drain Plug
Big cars generally had the block drain only in the rear boss - which your motor mount would now cover up. If the block drain plug is between the front [unused in your car] motor mount hole and the next hole [your motor mount's front bolt here], it was probably an A-body motor; rare for a big block. This gets overlooked in a LOT of motor swaps.[ Thanks to Chris Witt for this information ]
Marine Blocks
The marine blocks I've found have the numbers crudely stamped (ie, not even), in a font size larger than that used for the VIN derivative, and there is a drill spot on the number pad. The stamped-in numbers are of a different size and font than that used on the factory-stamped motors and are not lined up very well.On the block ID pad, where the ID numbers go (front drivers side), there is a number that begins with an "L". This strange "VIN derivative" (or engine unit number) number starting with L denotes a marine motor.
[ Thanks to Joe Padavano, Chris Witt for this information ]
ID/ Casting Code Year(s) CID Number Notes 1 '64-'66 330 381917 45° cam bank angle. 1A 330 381917 45° cam bank angle. 2 '68-'76 350 381917 2 '68-'70 350 395558 3 '66-'67 330 394417 39° cam bank angle. 4 5 '73,'74 350 395558 2A '75-'81 260 Solid main webs for 2A's only? At least for '76. 2B ??-'81 260 557751 Windowed main webs. Windowed main webs for 2B's only? 3A '79 350 3B '77-'80 350 557752 4A '77 403 557265 Solid main webs possibly 553990 for these three 554990 casting numbers. 4B '77-'79 403 557265 Windowed main webs always. ?? '85 307 556607 5A '81- 307 3161 D3 350 7582 Diesel
From the outside they don't look different at all because the 260, 307, 330, 350, and 403 are all the same basic block. But externally the distributor, valve covers, water pump, front cover, oil pan, carb, etc are the same.
Some blocks, before 1977, have their ID cast above the right hand center freeze plug, eg. D for 425, F for 455. Olds didn't cast the displacement into the side of the blocks until they went to the light weight design in 1977. The 1977 and newer blocks will have the cubic inches cast in large raised numbers right above the right hand center freeze plug, eg. 403. The 307 will be in liters (5L), and a diesel engine will have the letters "DX" on it. The engine VIN letter will also be cast into the side of the block. Note that the 260 blocks sometimes have the last 3 digits of the casting number cast there, "355", which is rather misleading.
The VIN derivative stamping or engine unit number on the left most side of the block, on the driver's side, just below the cylinder head, toward the front. The pad is part of the engine and will indicate the year of manufacture, but that is usually rusted beyond recognition, and it can be changed by restamping. If the engine was replaced under warranty, the pad may be blank. Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips help to remove the grime and grit from the stamping.
Service or replacement blocks will not have any stamping on the pad.
The VIN derivative on 68-up blocks doesn't tie directly to the type of car it was installed in (unless you have some way to unambiguously trace the last six digits of the VIN), however it _can_ provide some indirect evidence. If the production plant (third place in the VIN derivative) was one at which no 442s were built (KC, for example), then it obviously isn't a 442 motor. Of couse, you have no way of knowing for sure that the heads were originally installed on that block or not.
1964-67 V-8 Engine:
Code is stamped on the right cylinder head. Unfortunately, this only applies to what was originally the driver's side head. This code consists of a prefix letter (330 V8=T(1964-65) or W(1966-67), 400 V8 = V), then a production sequence number, followed by a suffix code letter (L = Low compression, E = 2-bbl export, G = High compression, H = 4-bbl export). A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine.1968-later V-8 Engine
Have the last six digits of the VIN number, the year of the block, and the assembly plant stamped on the driver's side of the block below the cylinder head. A 2-letter code on the oil filler tube identified the engine.You can use the VIN derivative number to ID the year. For 1968 and up blocks, this number is located on a pad just below the cylinder head on the front left side of the engine. This number will be stamped on a machined pad on the front driver's side of the block, just below the deck surface. Typically it will be covered with a power steering bracket or something, below the number one spark plug location.
This number should take the form of "35Mxxxxxx" where:
3 = Oldsmobile division. 5 = year of manufacture (8=68, 9=69, 0=70, ..., 4=74, 5=75, 6=76, etc.). M = location of manufacture (M = Lansing, B=Baltimore, X = Kansas City, Z = Fremont, CA, etc). xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN of car that motor originally came in (original car's sequential production number). The letter indicating factory must match the letter in the sixth position of the car's VIN (it should also, of course, match the factory indication on the body data plate - in other words, for a Lansing-built car, the sixth place in the VIN would be an "M", the body data plate should indicate "LAN", and the third place in the engine ID should also be an "M").
The oil filler tube is stamped with a number that indicates the year and engine unit number. So, 2724927 would break down as follows:
2 = 1972. 724927 = engine unit number. From the factory, the oil filler tube had a sticker containing two letters which indicated components (carb, etc), model application (Cutlass, 88, etc), and other configuration items (timing, CA approved, etc).
[ Thanks to Chris Witt, Tony Waldner, Joe Padavano, Bob Barry, Karl Aune for this information ]
Here are detailed VIN derivative numbers for different engines.
To reiterate from above, pre-1968 engines had an engine unit number stamped on to the machined pad at the front of the RH head. Starting in 1968, the VIN derivative (or engine unit number) of the engine's original car was stamped onto the vertical machined pad on the left side of the block, at the front, just under the head- block interface. It might look like "38M203456", where:
3= Oldsmobile, GM's 3rd division [1=Chevy, 2=Pontiac, 4=Buick, etc.]
8= year of issue last digit, like on oil fill tube [8=1968, 0=1970...]
M= build plant [1, E, G, M, R, or Z; see below], and 203456= the last 6 digits of the original car's VIN.
307 Block Quality
There was a problem in 1987. I don't know if it is due to poor nickel quantity, but there was a cracking problem in the deck area. Engine rebuilders are aware of this and check the decks of 1987 307's very close.Olds wasn't the only division to suffer in 1987. The small block Chevy cracked in the cam valley that year, and the 2.5 liter 4 cyl Pontiac suffered block and head cracking problems.
[ Thanks to Tony Waldner for this information ]
Diesel Blocks
I recall reading that old Old's diesels make fantastic starting points for very strong gas motors. Significantly stronger block than a regular gas 350. Especially with the DX block ('81 and up).They are the same only to the extent that the bore and external interfaces are the same. The diesel block is significantly heavier duty, with much thicker cylinder walls, main webs, etc. In addition, the diesel uses the big block's 3" main bearing size as opposed to the small block size. As a result, the diesel block is much heavier than a gas 350 block.
Other differences include much beefier connecting rods, a significantly higher compression ratio (what, like 22:1?), and obviously unique heads and intake with injectors. Also, the diesel uses a vacuum pump to power accessories, which takes the place of the unneeded distributor (or was that where the injector pump went?).
[ Thanks to Frederick Nissen, Joe Padavano, Frederick Nissen, for this information ]
Solid / Windowed Main Bearing Webs
All small block Olds engines produced in 1977 and after (with a few exceptions), have windowed main webs, with exception of the diesel 350. Oldsmobile re-tooled the engine foundries in early 1977. This is the reason that you see so many 350 Chevy engines in 1977 Delta 88's. There was a shortage of 350 Olds engines, and the Cutlass line was selling like crazy, so those engines were reserved for that line.403's are usually the engine mentioned when windowed webs are discussed because there are rumors and some sightings of solid main web 403's. Solid main webs would mean a much stronger bottom end. As far as 403's go, some people doubt that a solid web engine was ever made. According to Mondello, 2500 solid web 403's were produced in 1977 and they were used in big Buick and Olds wagons. You can determine if you have a solid web by looking at the serial number.
Quantity Produced 2500 Block Casting Numbers 557265-4A, 553990-4A, 554990-4A Blocks with these casting numbers were used in certain 1977 Buick Station Wagons built in 1976, the Pontiac Bonneville with tow package, the 1979 Pontiac Trans Am with tow package (w/block casting #554990-4A), and in 1977 Olds 98's. Block casting number is found behind the timing cover between the oil fill tube and the oil sending unit. Might also be found in 1977 Toronados.
All "4A" blocks don't necessary have solid main webs. #554990 has been found to have open webs. 1977 models built early in the model year, fall of 1976, are likely to have solid main webs.
Source: Mondello Olds V-8 Engine Technical Reference Manual
[ Thanks to Michael R. Hall, Chris B. Witt, Tony Waldner, Mark Prince, Jim Olson for this information ]
4 Bolt Mains
Except for experimental and ultra-exotic [Mondello, Dave Smith Engineering, etc.] custom setups, there is no such thing as an Olds 4-bolt block or main caps [455 or 350, etc.]. There were never any made.Block Metallurgy
Yes the nickel content is what makes the early Old's blocks, and Olds blocks in general, so strong. This is readily apparent if you use a rotary file on the block or heads. Low nickel engines (cheby is prime example) are very easy to take metal off while high nickel engines (like Olds) will take twice as long to remove the same amount of material. Prime example is when you machine the main caps for the strap and stud kit mine came out looking like a mirror (you could literally see your reflection!).At the rear of the block behind flexplate, in the right upper area (cast on the rear face, under the flexplate area,) for an "F" code such as F0, F1, F2, F3, F4, ect. If the block is an early one, the F code will be fairly low.
This numbering and selection of lower is better generally applies to 455 block only. This is open to speculation, because this is the most I've heard on the subject. And yes, conventional wisdom holds that the lower the F-number, the better the block quality for hi-po use - for 455s, which were cast in the late 60s-early 70s period when reduce performance and fuel economy concerns resulted in lower nickel content and thinner walls later in the production run. I doubt this applies to 425s, for example, which were obviously all cast in the early to mid 60s, and would have high nickle content.
The F5/F6 on a 67 425 block is consistent with them being 67 blocks (1967 was the last year of 425 production - presumably 65 425 blocks would be F1 and F2 blocks, for example). The reason why this is not significant on the 425s is that apparently all year 425 blocks are the same with reguard to wall thickness and nickel content, so the "look for a lower F-number" was never an issue. The 455s, however, do vary in desireability with production year, so that's why you've only heard about the F-number in relation to those blocks.
For those seeking to build a really heavy-duty engine, rumor has it that the blocks with a "F", "F1", etc, up to, "F5" or "F6", are higher in nickel, and stronger. Rumor has it those blocks up to the "F2" are the most desireable. These are commonly 1967 to 1970 or so 425 or 455 blocks.
This is not the "F" block ID code found on the timing shelf area. The "F" designation we are talking about here is a large (~1.5" tall) letter cast into the back face of the block, under the flywheel. You obviously need to have the motor out and the flywheel off to see this. This will either be just the letter "F" or "F" and a number up to 6. The 1968's should have the "F" with no number; later blocks have higher numbers. Conventional wisdom holds that the earlier blocks (up to "F2") are higher in nickel content and thus more desireable for performance applications.
Year Model CID Nickel Content Code '66 330 F4 '67 Non Toro 425 F5 '67 Non Toro 425 F6 '68 455 F4 '68 442 400 F2 '68 455 F2 '68 - '70 350 F4 '69 98 455 F1 '69 Hi-comp 455 F4 '70 88 455 F1 '73 455 F3 '73 455 F4 '76 88 350 F7 350 Diesel F6 [ Thanks to Chris Witt, Robert Schinkel, Joe Padavano, Mike Bloomer, Dave Brode for this information ]
Lifter Sizes
All engines 1968 and up, (all 455's, 400's, 403's, 350's, 307's, 260's), use the same lifter bank angle of 39°. All 455's and most small blocks [all but late 7A head 307s] use 0.842" diameter lifters. Most pre 1968 engines use 0.842", but set on a 45° bank angle. Some pre 1968 engines used larger 0.921" lifters and a 45° cam bank angle, notably 442 and Toronado engines. 1967 330's used a 39° cam bank angle and larger lifters.So to summarize,
if it's not a D block, use the following:
if it is a D block,
E and before blocks: 45 degree CBA, 0.842" lifters. F and after blocks: 39 degree CBA, 0.921" lifters.
39 degree CBA = WITH drill spot on the vertical rib @ RH end of block casting # shelf. Not too deep, just a conical valley. 0.921 [large] lifters. Came in Toro/StarFire/442, maybe Jetstar1. 45 degree CBA = No drill spot. Small [0.842] lifters, same as '68-up motors. Or use this summary,
Before 1968, use this chart: 330 #1 coded block (64-67 ALL were 45 degree and had .841" lifters) 400 #B coded block (65 only 442, 45 degree and had .841" lifters) 400 #E coded block (66-67 442 39 degree and had .921" lifters) 425 #A coded block (65 only, 45 degree and had .841" lifters) 425 #D coded block (66-67 NON - Toro all were 45 degree and had .841" lifters) 425 #D coded block (66-67 Toro all were 39 degree and had .921" lifters 1968 and after, all are 39° and 0.841" lifters: 350 #2 coded block (68-7? ALL were 39 degree and had .841" lifters) 400 #G coded block (68-69 442, 39 degree and had .841" lifters) 455 #F coded block (68-76 ALL 39 degree and had .841" lifters) And all 260, 307 and later 350 blocks.NOTE: The cam must be ground to match the block's cam bank angle. That cam will then work in any Olds engine with the same bank angle, but will NOT work in blocks with the other bank angle. Either lifter diameter can be used with either cam, just get lifters to match the block. Which brings up two important differences: the 0.921" lifters are rather more costly, at about $100 a set vs. $35 a set for the more common units, and the larger lifters require shorter pushrods. Also, some cam manufacturers no longer offer cams in the 45° form. Contact Engle for custom cams, as they grind all Mondello's cams.
You can NOT swap cams between the 45 and the 39 degree blocks. They will fit, BUT the cam timing events will NOT be as advertised. By degreeing the cam you will be able to figure all the specs out using a 39 degree cam in a 45 degree block. Those using a 45 degree engine should call the cam manufacturer to have them grind it for that engine. Will only cost a couple dollars more. Big lifters were only used in the 66-67 engines. Toro and 442. 425's with big lifters are only Toro and will guarantee you a 39 degree block. They have become very difficult to find the lifters and when you do they will not be cheap. Usually around $9.00 per lifter. The other .841 lifter is common, and will run usually less than half the price of the big ones.
[ Thanks to Chris Witt, Jim Chermack for this information ]
Oversize Lifter Bores
With any block, watch out for the 'O' stamp on the lifter bore boss, indicating a 0.010" oversize lifter. Either Oldsmobile would only have stock 0.010" over replacements or THERE ARE NONE AVAILABLE. Which means you either get to sleeve the lifter bore (difficult and expen$ive), or scrap the block, or, re-use that old lifter. Resleeving the lifter bore is not fun.[ Thanks to Chris Witt for this information ]
Table of Contents •
Index •
Acknowledgements
History •
Engines •
Blocks •
Heads •
Cranks •
Intakes •
Exhaust •
Pistons
Transmissions •
Diffs •
Brakes •
Suspension •
Steering •
Cams •
Carbs •
Interchange
Best BB •
Best SB •
260 •
303 •
307 •
324 •
330 •
350 •
371 •
394 •
400 •
403 •
425 •
455 •
Diesel
Rebuilding •
Buildup •
Swap •
Restore •
Option Codes •
Wheels •
Ignition •
Comp Ratio
The W's •
The H/O's •
The 442's •
Toronado •
88 / 98 / Starfire •
Cutlass •
Jetfire •
Wagons
Basic Tech •
How To •
Miscell •
All Vehicles •
Additional Information
© 1996 - 2000 by the members of the Oldsmobile Mail List Server Community. All rights reserved.